Page 154 - April Issue
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mama me-time | food for the soul

                                 car, squeezed against the door,     getting from people, and the       say about her! The grandmother
                                 window down, breathing in           influence she has on many          took her in when her own
                                 the warm air of my first African    people in the city as well as      mother could not afford all her
                                 night.                              further away in the country.       children, gave her an education
                                 After a short drive, we parked                                         and an opportunity to do
                                 in front of the house, children             As a widow, she took       something with her life and be
                                 gathering around us, coming         on the responsibilities of         happy. At the age of eighty, I
                                 to touch my skin and my hair,       her husband after he passed        wonder how many women – and
                                 shouting “Yovo! Yovo!” the Fon      away. People ask her for her       men too – Beatrice helped.
                                 (one of the local languages)        permission, approval and           Driving around the streets of
                                 word they use to describe a         advice on all kinds of matters.    Cotonou and in the surrounding
                                 white person. I felt like a star    When the grandmother says          villages, people would stop the
                                 walking the red carpet after        something, you do not question     car just for the chance to say
                                 receiving an Oscar! The street      her decision. Even her oldest      hello to her. The power that
                                 was very typical of Cotonou,        son, the next in line as king of   emanates from this old African
                                 a sandy road full of holes. We      their castle, a retired man who    woman is like nothing I have
                                 entered a courtyard where I         held a high position within a      ever seen in any other woman.
                                 could see children sitting at a     governmental administration,       She is a true queen, and for
                                 table doing their homework, an      rarely makes a decision without    it she is loved and respect
                                 area where some women were          the approval of his mother. She    by the people around her.
                                 cooking – outdoors, on the          also does a lot in the house, she  Everyone was in fact also calling
                                 ground, with a little fire place –  goes to the market, she cooks…     the grandmother “mama”. She
                                 and surrounded by a series of       She seems to know everything       truly is the mother of all these
                                 what looked like small areas or     about what is going on around      people.
                                 rooms, part of the same house.      her. The most amazing was
                                 I was led to my room; again,        when people came in the                 In a completely different
                                 I was privileged, housed in a       courtyard, and I saw many          world, I had the privilege to
                                 new part of the compound,           people of both sexes and of all    live with an amazing. Icelandic
                                 on the first floor, with my own     ages one after the other, only to  family of farmers, forty
                                 bathroom and sitting area.          greet her or pay their respect.    kilometers away from a little
                                 Another woman brought me a          They would bow in front of her     city north of Reykjavik. The
                                 bucket full of water from the       and kiss her hand. Beatrice is a   next door neighbor was about
                                 well so I could wash (as tap        strong woman, who grew up in       one kilometer away from the
                                 water is regularly cut for several  a universe I cannot even start to  farm, and the only things the
                                 hours during the day), and was      imagine, and she rules herfamily   eye could see in this magical
                                 told to come down for dinner        with great authority but also      land was majestic mountains
                                 when I was ready. I stayed for      with amazing generosity. I even    from the back door and the
                                 three weeks, and the whole          talked to a grown woman,           extraordinary Snæfellsjökull
                                 time I witnessed the incredible     mother of three, who was           volcano and glacier more than
                                 respect Beatrice, my host, was      brought up by this incredible      a hundred kilometers away.
                                                                     woman. The things she had to       Life can be pretty harsh and

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